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Sabaydii,
Here is the continuation of a series ‘Coming home’ entitled ‘Finding my old self’
Hakphaang,
Kongkeo Saycocie

At Wat Sisaket
Across the street from Wat Phakeo
I glanced back
At Chao Saysettha[1]’s temple

Even from a distance
The tall pillars
Supporting Wat Phakeo’s three tiered roof
Were strikingly imposing
Adding to the sliding magnificent roof
With the Xopha[2] and perching nagas[3]
Protecting the grand LanXang[4] temple
I came to see
What it meant to be Lao
At the height of this golden era

Admittedly
I was broiling with anger
When I was told
The Thai were going to renovate the place
Adding their glittering color
To our brownish grey
Wiping away our distinctively Lao style
May the like of Chao Souvanna Phouma[5]
Who restored Wat Phakeo to its present form
Helped keep the Thai dirty hands
From soiling what is ours and ours alone
Let them smear other temples
With their glittering wealth
But never over our sacred Wat Phakeo
Let this be Lao forever

Now at Chao Anou[6]’s temple
What a strange feeling
Being here
I for the first time
Felt like
I was at the presence of something
Greater than myself
Something of my bigger soul
At every step I took
I felt like
Something powerful was watching me
With great intensity
As if to say
Was I Lao enough
Or just a pretender
Ready to crumble
At the sight of danger?

When I looked at the Buddha statues
With some of their heads broken
I felt like I was thrust
Into an existence question
Was I satisfied
Leaving this land for a greener pasture?
As if I were but an ungrateful

Painful I was
To walk in this temple
Knowing full well
This was the last bastion of Lao defiance
8.28.03
[1] The greatest of all Lao
kings who established
[2] The crown of the temple located at the top of the roof
[3] the legendary serpent-like creatures who were the guardians of Muang Lao
[4] the grandest Lao kingdom
extended to cover both sides of the
[5] the Lao perpetual Lao prime minister of the old regime
[6] the king of LanXang
Vientiane who defiantly fought against