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Here is the
continuation of a series ‘Coming Home’ entitled ‘
Hakphaang,
Kongkeo Saycocie

Our pick-up stopped at the restaurant
Grandly decorated
But no customer was in sight

The old Chao Anou[1]
hotel by the restaurant
Looked gloomily at us
My LaoNai[2]
acquaintance the driver
Two Japanese businessmen and me
Glancing outside the window
Waiting for the food to be served
I saw
With the big truck pounding the road in front

Not far by the other road
The black Benz Mercedes
Waiting impatiently
For its turn to pass by
Once in a while
A horde of bicyclists and motorcyclists
Rushed by
Throwing the ready-to-fly dirt
Everywhere
A middle aged waitress
Dressed in the Lao traditional costume
Perching by window
Sent out a long and weary look
Into somewhere
Far far beyond
With nothing to do
I approached her
Inquiring about the place she came from
‘Savannakhet[3]’
a town to the South of Vientiane
she gently replied
I told her
I was from Savannakhet too
A long time ago
Like two long lost friends
Met in a land not of their own
Our eyes met
And we understood
On the way to That Luang[4]
And out of the city itself
We passed through
The once grand
The very one I was first at awe
When seeing it for the first time in the 60s

Now this avenue was full of potholes
And flying red dust
A sad replica
Of the years gone by
Then
At the far end of avenue
Stood my old school
Lycee de Vientiane[6]
Painted in an awkward blue
An unusual academic color indeed

I did remember
It was this school
I pinned my hope on
For the bright future
That never came
Like a thorn stuck deep in my flesh
Nobody knew
How much it hurt
But myself
Smile I may be
Laugh I may do
Stuffs I may accumulate
Nothing fills the void inside
Riding along
Letting the breeze brush my cheeks
Stopping the liquid in my eyes
That were about to form
For when I left Muang Lao
The big part in me had died with it
Will I ever get it back?
Will I ever be the same?
Only Heaven knows
7.31.03
[1] Chao Anou was the Lao heroic king in the early 19th
century. He fought to throw off Siamese (
yoke but was crushed and tortured to death.
[2] LaoNai was referred to the Lao people inside
[3] Savannakhet is the second biggest city in
[4] ThatLuang is the most revered stupa in
[5]
[6] Lycee de Vientiane is the prestigious high school
(number one on the list) in the whole of
to this school in the old days amounted to
guaranteeing oneself to the highly coveted government
jobs. I would say that all of Lao leaders
graduated from this school before they went on to study in
The French educational system. Each year, it
could accept only a few hundred students through the highly
competitive entrance exam taken by all 6 graders
in the capital. Usually, it takes 8 years to complete it. In
a way, Lycee is both the middle school and high school together.