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Sabaydii,

 

Here is the continuation of a series ‘Coming home’ entitled ‘To the ex-USAID compound’

 

Hakphaang,

Kongkeo Saycocie

 

To the ex-USAID compound

 

The other day arrived

First thing in the morning

I went to the former USAID[1] compound

Where now hosted

the center for art and culture preservation

not to mention

the heavily guarded prime minister office

I had no business whatsoever

 

On the way to the compound

Passing through Bane Nahaidieo[2]

General Vang Pao[3]’s grand residence

And his cohorts

Now occupied by the new regime

 

No surprise

Not to see any Hmong[4]

Left wandering around this area

Like before

 

Apart from that

Bane Nahaidieo or Khum Sisavat[5]

Where Wat Sisavat[6] as a centerpiece

Looked pretty much the same

Though less lively

And more in the somber mood

 

Its movie theater

Like other theaters in Vientiane

Was put into an early retirement

When VCR with its movies-for-rent

Took Vientiane by storm

 

Very much like Bangkok

Where the fad first began

With this modern gadget

Vientiane customers rapidly caught on

 

Since I had never entered

the forbidden compound

once a seat of the shadow government

run by the U.S.

it took me a while to find a gate

 

A stern looking guard

With his rifle leaning on the post

Asked about the purpose of my visit

 

Knowing who I meant to see

He had no choice but let me in

 

 

The other day

I called to make an appointment

To see Mr. Houmphanh Rattanavong

The head of art and culture preservation center

I had never met before

 

Kindly enough

He said he would see me in the morning

 

When I got there

A little bit before the time

I was told

He was still in the meeting

In the prime minister office

 

Didn’t know

When he could get out

Maybe I should try another day

 

My friend

Once visiting Loung[7] Houmphanh

Seemed to have an impression

He was closely watched

By a comrade speaking no Lao

 

Maybe

They thought

He was too much Lao

Not at the liking of the comrades-in-arms at all

 

When Loung Houmphanh finally made a presence

Close to noon

Luckily no one was following him

Or maybe

I didn’t see

I was not sure

 

We talked a long time

About the subject we were both interested in

The Tai

Where we came from

Where we were going

And what it meant to us the Lao

 

With Luangprabang accent[8]

He weaved a story

Sometimes in an angry tone

Sometimes in a defiant mode

All against the Thai

The self-proclaimed Big Brother

 

Not a time

I didn’t detect his enthusiasm

His scholarly stand

And his love for Muang Lao and Quon Lao

 

Couldn’t help to think

If we had the many of him

In the higher echelon

Muang Lao for truly Quon Lao

Wouldn’t be such a mere dream

 

When we parted

I saw a tinge of hope in his eyes

At least he found someone

Sharing his deep interest

Despite all of our different political stripes

 

As I was about to take off

He thrust a couple of books

Into my hand

Among them was the one on Chao Souphanouvong[9]

He himself wrote

Fully admired of the man

And the reason he was still here

 

With a last glance at the former USAID compound

I felt like

Despite all the darkness

I had encountered almost everywhere

Muang Lao wasn’t lost yet

 

Yes it just needs one

To raise our hope

Dim as it may be

At the present moment

 

9.3.03

 

 



[1] The United States Agency for International Development

 

[2] a section of the city I used to live

[3] He was the army commander for the 2nd region in charge of the area around Xiengkhouang where both sides fought heavily to gain control of that strategic region. Also, General Vang Pao was the CIA man in the secret war in Laos.

 

[4] One of the three main ethnic groups in Laos. The Hmong or Lao Soung were overwhelmingly on the side of the old regime fighting against the Communist forces.

 

 

[5] Khum Sisavat is a bigger section of the town in which Bane Nahaidieo resides in its jurisdiction.

 

[6] The temple

 

[7] a term addressed to a male person much older than you are

 

[8] a soft and melodious accent typical of people from the north

 

[9] The leader of the Pathet Lao and when Laos was proclaimed a republic, he was named its first president.